2026年6月19日 / 美国东部时间下午1:18 / 哥伦比亚广播公司/法新社
连续三天，尼泊尔登山者达瓦·夏尔巴被困在珠峰一处深裂缝中，靠饼干、巧克力和冰块维生，而他的家人早已开始为他的死讯哀悼。
夏尔巴本人也几乎放弃了获救的希望，直到一场雪崩轰然冲进这个25英尺深的冰裂缝，用积雪填满了裂缝，为他开辟出了一条逃生通道。
“能活着回来我非常开心，我本以为自己会死在那里，”57岁的夏尔巴在加德满都的家中公寓里康复时，向法新社讲述了他这次戏剧性自救的完整经过，这是他首次公开详述此事。
他曾爬出裂缝，用冻伤的手指艰难地沿着世界最高峰向下攀爬，拖着骨折的腿，最终在最后一次被人看到后的一周，几乎抵达了珠峰大本营。
此时在国内，僧侣已经开始为他举行临终超度仪式，虔诚的佛教徒妻子和女儿也认定他已经遇难，沉浸在悲痛之中。
最初，在救援的混乱中，有报道称他自5月30日起已失踪6天。
但事实上，更令人惊讶的是，夏尔巴表示他早在前一天，也就是5月29日就因筋疲力尽而倒下——这意味着他独自一人在山上待了一整周。
“动弹不得”
夏尔巴还有一个外号叫希拉里，以纪念传奇登山家埃德蒙·希拉里，他受雇于小型探险公司“喜马拉雅穿越探险”，在二号营地担任厨师。
但公司让他顶替一名向导参与行动，尽管他此前从未登顶过珠峰。
5月28日，夏尔巴爬到了海拔约27559英尺的“ balcony（南坳平台）”，随后在天黑前与英国登山者克里斯·思罗尔、波兰登山者马里乌什·奇米莱夫斯基以及向导帕桑·卡吉·夏尔巴一同下撤到四号营地。
他们在春季登山季的最后几次冲顶之一后返回，今年也是珠峰有记录以来登山人数最多的一年。
思罗尔是最后一个见到夏尔巴的人，当时他们下撤到了约26000英尺的高度。
夏尔巴说他因为氧气耗尽而掉队，并让思罗尔先行离开。
“我让他继续前进，说我自己会跟上，”他说，“但当我的氧气用完后，我的手脚都动不了了。于是我在绳索旁待了大约半小时。”
孤身一人、精疲力竭的他慢慢挪到一顶帐篷前，找到了一些面条。
“我吃了面，这让我恢复了些意识……然后我下撤到了三号营地，”他说，这里海拔仍有约23000英尺，他在呼啸的狂风中度过了一晚。
“我烧了水……煮了些粥喝了。”
到那时，团队其他成员已经抵达二号营地，并向探险公司报了警。
但搜救行动被延误了。
夏尔巴说他有一部卫星电话，但无法使用，还有一部对讲机——但电池已经没电了。
冻干咖啡和冰块
第二天他继续挣扎着前进，抵达了二号营地，但此时其他登山者都已经出发了。
他又一次落了单。
他计划一次性直接下撤到大本营，但当他穿过危险的昆布冰瀑——冰川断裂形成的区域时，他失足掉进了裂缝。
“我从梯子上滑了下去，挂在那里很久，”他说，当时他还紧紧抓着一个62磅重的袋子，里面装着8个空氧气瓶和客户的睡袋。
直到双手脱力，他才松开袋子，任由它掉进冰冷的深渊。
最终，他再也坚持不住，自己也掉了下去。
“我撞到了头，但落在了一块平坦的区域，”他说，腿部受了伤。
他从夹克里掏出了冻硬的巧克力和冻干咖啡。
“我口袋里有一些饼干和巧克力，还有咖啡……我没有热水，所以就掰些冰块弄湿嘴唇，”他说。
6月3日——也就是他被抛下后的第六天——一架直升机轰鸣着从头顶飞过。
但他当时还深陷裂缝之中。
“我知道有直升机来了，我能听到它的声音，但看不到它，”他说。
“我当时没指望自己还能活着，”本月早些时候他在病床上告诉尼泊尔语版BBC，“我以为自己会这么死掉。”
“没人来”
夏尔巴说他在裂缝里待了两晚，无法爬出那“光滑的岩壁”。
“无处可去。我会琢磨自己是生是死，只盼着有人能来救我，”他说。
“但没人来——反而来了一场雪崩，救了我。”
雪崩用积雪填满了裂缝，让他得以爬出去。
“这非常艰难，肯定花了我一个小时——抓着冰面，用冰爪固定住，”他说。
“我踩在一块雪上，慢慢往上挪。当我爬到斜坡上时，我觉得自己现在能活下来了。”
脱困后，他找到了一根绳索，顺着它前行，最终爬着靠近了大本营。
6月4日清晨，他被萨加玛塔污染控制委员会的人员发现，这是一支尼泊尔团队，负责在珠峰架设路线和清理遗留垃圾。
“看到他们的时候我非常开心，”他说。
夏尔巴被空运到加德满都，医生为他治疗冻伤、严重脱水和股骨骨折。
他不可思议的生还引发了同行登山者的庆祝，但也让家属和登山界人士感到愤怒，指责相关方未能更早找到他。
尼泊尔政府已经启动了调查。
当被问及是否会再次回到山上时，夏尔巴表示他以登山为业的日子已经结束了。
“我现在不会再去登山了，也许只会去徒步旅行，”他说。
“应该设定一个上限”
根据尼泊尔政府的初步数据，已有超过1000名登山者登顶珠峰，这是有记录以来最繁忙的登山季。
政府通过发放珠峰登山许可证获得了超过700万美元的收入。
官员们表示，登山者们在5月21日创下了一项纪录，当天有274人成功登顶尼泊尔一侧的珠峰。专家们此前就曾警告过过度拥挤的潜在危险，就在创纪录登顶当天前后，有两名登山者遇难。
一名夏尔巴向导告诉法新社，登山热度的上升不仅加剧了山上的拥堵，还意味着更多经验不足的登山者加入了攀登队伍。
“当局有必要控制登山人数，”卡米·丽塔·夏尔巴说，“他们应该只允许合格的登山者进山——应该设定一个上限。”
Injured climber trapped alone on Mount Everest for days reveals how an avalanche saved his life
June 19, 2026 / 1:18 PM EDT / CBS/AFP
For three days, Nepali mountaineer Dawa Sherpa was trapped deep inside an Everest crevasse, surviving on biscuits, chocolates and chunks of ice, while back home his family had already begun mourning his death.
Sherpa himself had nearly given up hope of rescue, until an avalanche thundered into the 25-foot deep ice crack, filling it with snow and creating a route to freedom.
“I am very happy to be back, I thought I would die there,” Sherpa, 57, told AFP, giving his first full account of his dramatic self-rescue, as he recovers in an apartment in Kathmandu with his family.
He had clawed his way out of the crevasse and crawled down the world’s highest mountain with his frostbitten fingers, dragging his fractured leg and eventually nearly reaching Base Camp a week after he had been last seen.
Back home, monks had already begun performing last rite rituals for him, as his devout Buddhist wife and daughter mourned him, presuming him dead.
Everest survivor Dawa Sherpa’s daughter Mendo Lhamu Sherpa applies ointment on his frostbitten hands in Kathmandu, Nepal, on June 18, 2026. Prakash MATHEMA /AFP via Getty Images
Initially, in the confusion of the rescue, it was reported he had been missing for six days, since May 30.
In fact, even more remarkably, Sherpa reckons he had collapsed exhausted a day earlier on May 29 — meaning he had been alone on the mountain for an entire week.
“Couldn’t move”
Sherpa, also known as Hillary like the legendary climber Edmund Hillary, was employed as a cook at Camp Two by a small expedition organizer, Himalayan Traverse Adventure.
But they roped him in as a substitute for a guide, despite never having summited Everest before.
Sherpa went as high as the Balcony, around 27,559 feet high, on May 28, before descending to Camp Four at dark with British climber Chris Thrall, Polish climber Mariusz Chmielewski and guide Pasang Kaji Sherpa.
They were returning after one of the final summit pushes of the spring climbing season, in what has become the busiest year on record for Everest.
Thrall was the last to see Sherpa, after descending to an altitude of around 26,000 feet.
Sherpa said he fell behind because he ran out of oxygen, and told Thrall to continue.
“I told him to keep going, and that I will come,” he said. “But when my oxygen ran out, I couldn’t move my hands or feet. So I stayed at the rope for about half an hour.”
Alone and exhausted, he slowly made his way to a tent and found some noodles.
“I ate it, and it helped me gain consciousness … I then came down to Camp Three,” he said, still around 23,000 feet high, where he spent a night in howling gales.
“I heated water … cooked some porridge and had it.”
By then, the rest of the team had reached Camp Two and raised the alarm with the expedition company.
But search and rescue efforts were delayed.
Sherpa said that he had a satellite phone, which he could not get to work, and a walkie-talkie radio — but its batteries went dead.
Dried coffee and ice
Sherpa struggled on the next day, reaching Camp Two, but by that time, all other climbers had gone on.
Again, he was alone.
He planned to continue to Base Camp in one go, but as he crossed the treacherous Khumbu icefall, the fractured head of a glacier, he fell into the crevasse.
“I slipped and fell from a ladder, and I hung there for a long time,” he said, saying he was still clutching a 62-pound bag with eight empty oxygen cylinders and the client’s sleeping bags.
Only after his hands tired did he let go of the bag into the icy depths.
Eventually, unable to hold on, he fell too.
“I hit my head but landed in a flat area,” he said, injuring his leg.
Everest survivor Dawa Sherpa speaks during an interview with AFP in Kathmandu on June 18, 2026. Prakash MATHEMA /AFP via Getty Images
Digging into his jacket, he brought out frozen chocolate and dried coffee.
“I had some biscuits and some chocolates in my pockets, and coffee … I didn’t have any hot water, so I would break some ice and wet my mouth,” he said.
On June 3 — six days since he was left — a helicopter thundered overhead.
But he was still deep inside the crevasse.
“I knew that a helicopter came, I could hear its sound, but could not see it,” he said.
“I didn’t think I would be alive,” he told BBC Nepali from his hospital bed earlier this month. “I thought I would perish this way.”
“No one came”
Sherpa said he spent two nights in the crevasse, unable to climb out its “smooth walls.”
“There was nowhere to go. I would wonder if I would live or die, just hoping that someone would come and rescue me,” he said.
“But no one came — instead, an avalanche did, to save me.”
The avalanche filled in the crevasse with snow, allowing him to crawl out.
“It was very difficult, it must have taken me an hour — holding onto the ice, and latching on with the crampons,” he said.
“I stepped on a piece of snow and moved up slowly. When I came out on the slope, I felt that I will now survive.”
Once out, he found a rope and followed it, eventually crawling down close to Base Camp.
There, on the morning of June 4, he was found by the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, a Nepali team that helps set routes on Everest and clean up waste left behind.
“I was very happy to see them,” he said.
Sherpa was airlifted to Kathmandu, where doctors treated him for frostbite, severe dehydration and a fractured thigh bone.
Paramedics work to transport Dawa Sherpa, who was missing for several days in the Everest region, from the helipad at HAMS Hospital in Kathmandu on June 4, 2026. Navesh Chitrakar / REUTERS
His improbable survival has sparked celebration among fellow climbers, but also anger from family members and the mountaineering community over the failure to locate him sooner.
The government has launched an investigation.
Asked if he would return to the mountains again, Sherpa said his time climbing for work was over.
“I will not go to the mountains now, maybe just for some trekking,” he said.
“There should be a limit”
More than 1,000 climbers reached Everest’s summit, according to preliminary Nepali government figures, making it the busiest season on record.
The government collected more than $7 million from issuing climbing permits for Everest.
Climbers set a record on May 21, when 274 of them successfully ascended Nepal’s side of the mountain in a single day, officials said. Experts have warned of the potential dangers of overcrowding, especially after two climbers died around the time of that record-setting day.
Increasing popularity not only increases congestion on the mountain, but also means less experienced climbers are more likely to be among the groups attempting the trek, one sherpa told AFP.
“There is a need for authorities to control this number,” Kami Rita Sherpa said. “They should let in only climbers of quality — there should be a limit.”
Climbers walk in a long queue as they head to summit Mount Everest in the Solukhumbu district, also known as the Everest region, Nepal, May 18, 2026. Purnima Shrestha / REUTERS
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