2026年2月15日 / 美国东部时间上午9:52 / CBS新闻
Alfredo alla Scrofa不仅仅是一家餐厅；它是一台时光机。这家罗马餐厅的墙壁上挂满了约翰·韦恩、托尼·柯蒂斯、柯克·道格拉斯、奥黛丽·赫本和格利高里·派克等明星的照片。
“这就是’甜蜜生活’（La Dolce Vita），”店主马里奥·莫泽蒂说。
当影星们不在片场时，他们就在这里享用费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多——这道百年前诞生于此的经典意面。
莫泽蒂是第三代“奶油师”（mantecatore），也就是负责为这道菜制作意面的人。他说，这一切都始于原始店主阿尔弗雷多·迪莱利奥的妻子生下孩子后生病，食欲不振。阿尔弗雷多在厨房里找到了治愈的方法：用新鲜鸡蛋制成的意面薄如蝉翼，切面条的时间比煮面条还长。
莫泽蒂说，秘诀在于烹饪时间：”大约30秒，而不是通常煮鸡蛋面的三到五分钟。”
然后将意面盛盘，加入一些面汤、少量黄油和陈年24个月的帕玛森芝士刨丝。莫泽蒂随后戏剧性地混合这些食材，几乎像在编织。”这是一场舞蹈！”他说，”这是阿尔弗雷多为他妻子谱写的华尔兹。它简单，但又极其复杂。”
制作费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多。（CBS新闻）
这种复杂的简单味道最终俘获了好莱坞最初的明星情侣的味蕾。1920年，玛丽·毕克馥刚刚与道格拉斯·范朋克结婚——这桩全球轰动的婚事被媒体争相报道。在罗马度蜜月时，他们不仅爱上了彼此，也爱上了费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多。
莫泽蒂向我们展示了毕克馥1951年写下的留言：”‘伟大的阿尔弗雷多，昨天、今天、明天，永远都是阿尔弗雷多。’她爱上了这个地方，”他说。
为表感激，范朋克和毕克馥送给阿尔弗雷多一套金质刀叉勺。但莫泽蒂表示，原件早已遗失：”遗憾的是，在40年代二战期间，纳粹拿走了原件。”
一个多世纪以来，演艺界的名流们都必须来此朝圣，包括剧作家阿瑟·米勒：”阿瑟·米勒让我震惊，”莫泽蒂说，”我说，’让我摸摸你。让我摸摸。’ ‘为什么？’ ‘因为你是玛丽莲·梦露的丈夫。得了吧，我无法抗拒！’”
索菲亚·罗兰、约翰·F·肯尼迪、弗兰克·辛纳屈、迪恩·马丁和西尔维斯特·史泰龙——只是众多来罗马阿尔弗雷多 alla Scrofa餐厅和Il Vero Alfredo餐厅朝圣的名人中的一小部分。
凭借这样的传奇故事，难怪这道意面会进入美国的食谱和餐厅。就像好莱坞剧本一样，这个故事比意面还曲折。
距离Alfredo alla Scrofa餐厅步行不远，有另一家餐厅声称拥有正宗配方，名为Il Vero Alfredo（意译：真正的阿尔弗雷多）。它由基亚拉·库莫（Alfredo De Lelio的曾孙女）和她的母亲伊内斯·德·莱利奥经营，提供库莫所说的”真正的费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多”。
墙上甚至挂着更多名人的名字——如艾娃·加德纳、华特·迪士尼、伊丽莎白·泰勒、理查德·伯顿、西尔维斯特·史泰龙和罗纳德·里根。
甚至还有属于它自己的金质刀叉勺！
当被问及纳粹偷走刀叉勺的故事时，库莫回答：”这不是真的。是假的！”
事情变得复杂起来：二战期间，这道菜的创造者阿尔弗雷多·德·莱利奥将第一家餐厅卖给了他的一位服务员——马里奥·莫泽蒂的叔叔。战后，阿尔弗雷多·德·莱利奥决定开另一家餐厅。
从那以后，两家餐厅就共存了，虽然不情愿，但各自都成为了从好莱坞到华盛顿的名人圣地。伊内斯·德·莱利奥说，肯尼迪一家很喜欢在那里吃费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多。”我祖父对肯尼迪说，他们会带来好运和健康，”伊内斯·德·莱利奥说。
尽管存在分歧，两家餐厅至少在一件事上达成共识：在美国，我们做费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多经常是错误的。”加虾仁、加奶油，我不喜欢，”库莫说。
罗马的两家餐厅——Il Vero Alfredo（左）和Alfredo alla Scrofa——都声称自己是费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多的发源地。（CBS新闻）
据莫泽蒂统计，美国市场上销售的Alfredo Sauce（阿尔弗雷多酱）品牌超过50个。他对其他人靠费特丸尼阿尔弗雷多发财有何看法？”这非常令人痛苦。而且至少，他们不知道这个地方，这个位置，”他说。
或者说，是两个地方。两个支柱，无论如何，这场 rivalry（竞争）创造并维持了一个意式美式经典。
更多信息：
- Alfredo alla Scrofa, Rome
- Il Vero Alfredo, Rome
本文由安娜·马特兰加制作。编辑：埃马努埃莱·塞奇。
Fettuccine Alfredo: A recipe for La Dolce Vita
February 15, 2026 / 9:52 AM EST / CBS News
Alfredo alla Scrofa isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a time machine. The walls of this Rome establishment are covered with pictures of stars like John Wayne, Tony Curtis, Kirk Douglas, Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.
“This was La Dolce Vita,” said owner Mario Mozzetti.
And when the movie stars weren’t on set, they were eating Fettuccine Alfredo, born right here more than a century ago.
Mozzetti is a third-generation mantecatore, or “creamer,” the one who whips up the noodles inside the dish. It all started, he says, when the wife of the original owner, Alfredo Di Lellio, had a baby, then got sick and lost her appetite. Alfredo found the cure in this kitchen: fresh egg pasta so thin, it takes longer to cut it than to cook it.
The secret, said Mozzetti, is cooking time: “More or less, 30 seconds, instead of three, four, five minutes, which is the normal cooking time of egg pasta.”
It’s then placed in a dish, along with some pasta water, just a touch of butter, and grated parmesan, aged 24 months. Mozzetti then dramatically mixes the ingredients, almost like weaving. “This is a dance!” he said. “This is the waltz that Alfredo dedicated to his wife. It’s simple, but very, extremely simple and complicated at the same time.”
Preparing Fettuccine Alfredo. CBS News
That complicated simplicity eventually caught the taste buds of Hollywood’s original power couple. The year was 1920, and Mary Pickford had just married Douglas Fairbanks – a global sensation covered breathlessly by the press. After falling in love with each other, they fell in love with Fettuccine Alfredo on their honeymoon in Rome.
And Mozzetti showed us a message Pickford wrote in 1951: “‘Alfredo the great, yesterday, today, tomorrow, and for always, Alfredo.’ She was in love with this place,” he said.
In a sign of gratitude, Fairbanks and Pickford gave Alfredo a golden fork and spoon. But the originals, Mozzetti said, are long gone: “In the ’40s and during the second war, unfortunately, the Nazis took the original ones.”
For more than a century, anyone who was anyone in show business just had to make the pilgrimage, including playwright Arthur Miller: “Arthur Miller was a shock for me,” said Mozzetti. “I said, ‘Let me touch you. Let me touch.’ ‘Why?’ ‘Because you were the husband of Marilyn Monroe. Come on. I can’t resist!’”
Sophia Loren, John F. Kennedy, Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin, and Sylvester Stallone – just a few of the celebrities who have made pilgrimages to the restaurants Alfredo alla Scrofa and Il Vero Alfredo in Rome. Alfredo alla Scrofa, Il Vero Alfredo
With that kind of folklore, it’s no wonder how this pasta made its way into cookbooks and restaurants across America. And like a Hollywood script, this tale has more twists and turns than a pasta dish.
Just a short walk away from Alfredo alla Scrofa, there’s another restaurant with a rival claim. It’s called Il Vero Alfredo. [Translation: The REAL Alfredo.] It’s run by Chiara Cuomo (great-granddaughter of the Alfredo De Lelio), and her mother, Ines de Lelio. And it serves what Cuomo calls “the real Fettuccine Alfredo.”
And there are even more celebrities on their wall – names like Ava Gardner, Walt Disney, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Sylvester Stallone and Ronald Reagan.
And even its own golden fork and spoon!
Asked about the story that the Nazis stole them, Cuomo replied, “It’s not true. Fake!”
Here’s where things get complicated: During World War II, the dish’s creator, Alfredo de Lelio, sold the first restaurant to one of his waiters – Mario Mozzetti’s uncle. Then, after the war, Alfredo de Lelio decided to open another restaurant.
Ever since, the two have coexisted, begrudgingly – each a mecca for royalty, from Hollywood to Washington. Ines de Lelio said the Kennedys enjoyed Fettuccine Alfredo there. “My grandfather said to Kennedy that they will bring luck and health,” Ines de Lelio said.
Despite their differences, both restaurants can agree on at least one thing: In America, we’re often doing Fettuccine Alfredo wrong. “With the shrimps, with cream, I don’t like it,” said Cuomo.
Two Rome restaurants – Il Vero Alfredo (left) and Alfredo alla Scrofa – each claim the origin of Fettuccine Alfredo. CBS News
By Mozzetti’s count, there are more than 50 brands of Alfredo Sauce for sale on the U.S. market. How does he feel about other people getting rich off of Fettuccine Alfredo? “It’s very painful. And nobody knows, at least, they don’t know about this place, this location,” he said.
Or, rather, both locations. Two pillars, either in spite of, or thanks to a rivalry that created and maintained an Italian-American classic.
For more info:
- Alfredo alla Scrofa, Rome
- Il Vero Alfredo, Rome
Story produced by Anna Matranga. Editor: Emanuele Secci.
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